Omni-Terminator Upgrades That Stop It Breaking: CVDs, Diffs, Shocks and Hubs After More Power
Short answer: Fix the setup before buying parts: set the droop screws or lower the ride height so the CVDs run flatter, then shim any CVDs that pop out. After that, the upgrades that matter most on a powered-up Omni-Terminator are steel CVDs and dog bones, spare drive cups, hinge pins and hubs, progressive springs with thicker shock oil, and a stronger servo saver.
Independent guide. RcFanz is not affiliated with, endorsed by or sponsored by Rlaarlo or any brand mentioned; model names are used only to describe compatibility. Some links on this page may earn us a commission; see our disclosure. Upgrading electronics can void warranties and raises crash and LiPo fire risk, so follow your ESC and battery manuals.
By RcFanz Team · Updated: Nov 9, 2026
Contents
The Omni-Terminator is a 4WD truck with three differentials (front, centre and rear), steel diff gears, a metal spur, front CVDs, rear dog bones and drive cups, and a two-piece centre shaft. It is tough stock. Add power or bigger tires, though, and the same few parts fail first. If you are planning more power, read the motor and ESC upgrade guide first; this page is the follow-up for keeping it in one piece.
What breaks first (owner reports)
Owners most often report these, roughly in this order:
- Servo and servo saver – more power and bigger tires load steering. Fix: a metal servo saver and a stronger servo (see steering).
- CVDs, dog bones and drive cups – they pop out or split at a steep angle. Fix: ride height and droop, then the CVD fix.
- Hinge pins and flange tubes – bend under hard hits. Fix: metal hinge pins.
- Front hubs – wear and wobble. Fix: see hub wobble.
- Shock standoff bolts – pull out or bend. Fix: metal standoffs and thread lock.
- Rear axles – wear in the drive cups. Fix: spare axles and cups.
Free fixes first: ride height and droop
Droop is how far the suspension can drop. The Omni-Terminator has droop (downstop) screws in the lower arms. With high droop, the CVDs run at a steep angle and pry the diff cups open. The fix is free:
- Lift the truck by the chassis and look at both sides: set the droop screws so the left and right arms drop the same amount.
- Limit droop until the CVDs run closer to flat at rest.
- Shock limiters or the lower shock mounting hole also reduce ride height.
- The trade-off: less travel means harder landings, so do not go further than you need.
A review of the truck found that the high stock ride height makes a steep CVD angle that pries diff cups open, and that lowering the ride height largely fixes it.
CVDs popping out: the fix
Common causes are too much droop, camber, worn cups and play in the drive line. The method:
- Reduce droop as above.
- Set camber near −1° as a starting point (general hobby practice).
- Shim the CVD where it meets the drive cup until it is snug but still spins freely.
- Replace worn cups; a loose cup keeps letting the CVD escape.
Steel CVDs and dog bones: worth it?
Yes, after a power upgrade. Buy them in pairs and keep a spare pair in the field kit. Maker part numbers such as the S2 steel CVD R11141 are given here as plain text for identification only.
Drive cups and rear axles
Rear axles and drive cups wear first. Keep a spare set; the symptom is a clicking or loose rear wheel.
Diffs and the centre diff
The truck has three diffs. The centre diff takes the hit on hard launches. Thicker diff fluid sends more drive to the gripping wheels. The stock diff fluid weight is not published in the sources we found, so check your manual before you change it. Check the gear mesh and the spur as well. The maker's centre-diff part number is R11139 (text only).
Shocks: oil weight, springs and boots
The shocks are oil-filled aluminium with adjustable collars. One owner setup: Traxxas 6868 (front) and 6867 (rear) progressive springs, reported to fit, with about 75wt oil; the same owner found 100wt too stiff. Treat that as one owner's setup, not a spec. Thicker oil slows the damper and suits big jumps; thinner oil reacts quicker on rough ground.
- Rebuild shocks with the same oil volume and bleed them properly.
- Keep front pairs and rear pairs matched in length.
- Mismatched shocks and droop are a common cause of odd handling.
Hub wobble and wheel play
Diagnose in this order: wheel nut, bearings, a bent dog bone or centre shaft, hub and knuckle wear, then tire balance. Third-party aluminium hubs and knuckles exist; confirm the fit for your version. See also the wheel wobble checklist.
Metal parts worth buying (and which are not)
| Part | Breaks often? | Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| Hinge pins | Yes, bend | Worth it |
| Front hubs / knuckles | Wear, wobble | Worth it |
| Flange tubes | Yes | Worth it |
| Servo horn and saver | Yes after more power | Worth it |
| Shock standoffs | Sometimes | Worth it |
| Steel CVDs and dog bones | Yes at steep angles | Worth it after a power upgrade |
| Full aluminium arms | Rarely | Think twice: they can transfer breakage to the chassis and add weight |
Sway bars and arm mounts
The stock bars keep the truck flat in corners. Thicker bars suit pavement and high speed; softer bars suit rough ground. Metal arm mounts add strength where the arms attach.
Steering: servo saver and servo
More power and bigger tires kill the stock servo first. A metal servo saver protects the gears, and a 25–35 kg standard-size servo with a full-size mount is a common upgrade.
Screws, thread lock and the ESC mount
Use blue thread lock on metal-to-metal screws. A hardware kit is a cheap spares item. The stock ESC mount can work loose; re-tape it or move it, as explained in the ESC relocation section.
Field spares kit
- A CVD pair, a dog bone and a drive cup
- Hinge pins
- A spare servo saver
- Assorted screws and thread lock
- Zip ties
- Shock oil
- A spare charged 3S pack
FAQ
What are the best Omni-Terminator upgrades?
Fix ride height and droop first, then steel CVDs and dog bones, hinge pins and hubs, progressive springs, and a metal servo saver with a stronger servo.
Why do my Omni-Terminator CVDs keep popping out?
Usually too much droop or play in the drive line. Limit droop, check camber, and shim the CVD so it is snug but spins freely.
Why do the diff cups break, and does lowering the truck fix it?
The high stock ride height puts the shafts at a steep angle that levers the cups open. Lowering the ride height largely fixes it.
What are droop screws, and how should I set them?
They are downstop screws in the lower arms that limit how far the suspension drops. Set both sides equal.
What shock oil weight should I use on the Omni-Terminator?
Owners commonly report about 75wt with stiffer progressive springs. Go thicker for big jumps and thinner for rough ground. The stock weight is not published.
Which springs fit the Omni-Terminator shocks?
One owner reports Traxxas 6868 (front) and 6867 (rear) fit. Confirm for your version.
Why are my front wheels wobbling?
Check for a bent dog bone or centre shaft first, then bearings, a loose wheel nut and tire balance.
Are aluminium suspension arms worth it?
Usually not: they can move the breakage to the chassis and add weight.
Do these parts fit the Storm Breaker?
The Storm Breaker shares the platform, and owners use some of its parts on the Omni-Terminator, but check each listing.
Is this an official Rlaarlo guide?
No. RcFanz is an independent site and is not affiliated with Rlaarlo.
Sources
Facts come from maker and retailer specs, an independent review and owner reports, which are paraphrased and labelled as owner reports.